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Seeds: can be obtained from local dealers and seed catalogs. Commercially available seeds are treated for disease and insect resistance and are stored under conditions that ensure health and vigor. It is possible to get atypical plants when you save your own seeds and when the plants are cross-pollinated or hybrid varieties.
Starting plants from seed: plant several seeds in each container and thin them later to a single plant. Cover lightly with a thin layer of the planting medium and water gently. Place the box or flat in a warm location and keep it moist until the seeds germinate. As a general rule, it will be 6-8 weeks from the time seeds are sown until the plants are ready for transplanting to the garden.
Growing media: there have been many advances in potting mixes in recent years. Drainage is excellent, water holding capacity is good, and the mixes are lightweight.
A trend has developed to use synthetic or soilless mixes because of their uniformity, freedom from disease or insect problems, and ease of use. Most mixes contain peat and vermiculite and other additives.
Fertilization: soilless mixes usually require fertilization two to three times per week using a soluble fertilizer. Avoid heavy fertilization in periods of dark, dreary weather. Just prior to setting plants in the garden, make sure they are well watered and fertilized. It is recommended to use a plant starter solution or “root stimulator” as you set plants in the garden.
Starting transplants: the growth period of plants can be divided into three distinct stages: germination, growth, and acclimation (hardening).
Germination: seeds will germinate when supplied with water and a desirable temperature. Some crops, such as lettuce, require lightbulb, however most crops do not. Locate containers in a warm location and cover with plastic or an insulating blanket to reduce evaporation, or use a germination chamber.
Growth: after germination occurs, growth starts. Plants require water (including nutrients if they’re not available in the media, cooler temperatures, and light to grow. Adjust temperatures for day-night conditions.
Acclimation or “Hardening: during the last week of growing, transplants can be acclimated to the shock or stress of field setting by reducing growth conditions. This is done by lowering temperatures, reducing watering, or both. A shift in the fertilization schedule to reduce nitrogen (which encourages vegetative growth) and increase phosphate fertilizers (which encourages root development) is suggested 3-5 days before field setting.
Using artificial lights: a standard 2 bulb fluorescent “shop light” works well if supported by a wood or PVC pipe frame. Initially, drop the light to just over the seed flats then gradually raise the light.
For producing transplants: Use a disease-free material such as sphagnum moss, vermiculite, or sand instead of soil. Sow thickly in rows apart. Cover lightly with a thin layer of the planting medium and water gently. Place the box or flat in a hotbed or sunny window and keep it moist until the seeds germinate. It will be 6–8 weeks from the time seeds are sown until plants are ready for transplanting to the garden.
Seedlings: after seedlings emerge and have 2–4 small leaves, they should be replanted in small pots and allowed to grow until transplanted to the garden. Pots should contain soil mixed with peat or sand to loosen it. A container must have a drain hole. Place one seedling in each pot. Water gently and place in a sunny window or hotbed until transplanting time.
Transplanting: before transplanting, water plants well. Allow as much soil to adhere to the roots. After, use a starter solution and sprinkle some dry soil over the moist soil around the plant. Protect the young transplants for the first few days. Plant entire pot to lessen the transplanting shock.
When to plant: planting date is determined by local weather conditions and the nature of the various garden vegetables. Some vegetables require warm soil and air temperatures. Others will grow in colder temperatures. Many vegetables can be planted so they mature for use in the fall as well as in the spring. Some vegetables are more tolerant of frost than others.
Preparing the seedbed: Work the seedbed as little as possible, but break up most of the larger surface clods.
Source: https://bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/pubs/s51.pdf
